How to Road Trip from Kailua-Kona to Hilo

It’s pretty hard to have a proper road trip in Hawaiʻi. Driving from Oahu’s central city of Honolulu to the North Shore, for example, takes less than an hour (without traffic). This is not the case on Hawaiʻi Island, which rightfully earns its moniker, the Big Island. Driving to and from the island’s two largest towns—Kailua-Kona and Hilo—will take well over an hour, and that’s the short way. Driving along Hawaiʻi Belt Road and Mamalahoa Highway would be considered the scenic route—the 125-mile trip takes about three hours. Fortunately, there’s a lot to see on the way from Kailua-Kona to Hilo, so if you’ve got the time—and gas—to spare, here’s a guide on what to look out for on your journey.

To properly begin your drive, you’ll need to stock up on water, snacks and caffeinated drinks. Fortunately, Matsuyama Market (73-4040 Hulikoa Drive) is less than a mile from the Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport; you can get what you need there. If you want to fill your tummy too, Pine Tree Café (73-4040 Hulikoa Drive) next door serves filling, onolicious plate lunches and breakfast options. Better yet, it opens at 6 a.m. every day, so you won’t have to wait to get your long day started.

Now it’s time to hit the road. Those with spending in mind might want to wander over to Alii Drive, a coastal road lined with chic boutiques and cozy cafés. Driving onto this scenic seaside strip will take you off of Hawaiʻi Belt Road; fortunately you can just turn up Walua Road, then on to Kuakini Highway, which will bring you back to Hawaiʻi Belt Road.

From here, we recommend heading for the hills, because nestled in Kona’s upcountry is the charming little town of Holualoa. Known for its abundant supply of Kona coffee, Holualoa’s charming galleries and artistic vibes will make you want to stay longer than you probably should. Once you’ve grabbed a cup of Kona coffee and maybe strummed a few ukulele at the Holualoa Ukulele Gallery & Workshop, get back onto Mamalahoa Highway and head south.

When you drive through Kainaliu, be sure to stop at the Donkey Balls Chocolate Factory (79-7407 Mamalahoa Highway), which sells its signature Donkey Balls (macadamia nuts encased in lots of chocolate). The company also sells other varieties with hilarious names like Blue Balls (macadamia nuts covered in semisweet chocolate and then coated with a layer of blue-colored white chocolate) and Salty Balls (milk chocolate-covered mac nuts rolled in Hawaiʻian sea salt).

The next town is Captain Cook. Be on the lookout for some of the eclectic thrift shops on its main drag. King’s Daughter Ministry Thrift Shop (79-7401 Mamalahoa Highway) has a wide selection of aloha shirts and muumuu to choose from, and Creative Costumes (79-7412 Mamalahoa Highway) is a great place to dig for comic book collectibles and props.

After you’ve lightened your wallet, get back on Mamalahoa Highway and continue south while keeping an eye out for a little building called The Coffee Shack (83-5799 Mamalahoa Highway). While its exterior may look a little mundane, the panoramic bird’s-eye view you get of Kealakekua Bay from the seating area inside is anything but. Don’t let that jaw drop too far—you’ll need it to chow down on the breakfast bistro’s homemade pastries, like its freshly baked muffins and scones.

If you’re still feeling hungry, continue down Mamalahoa Highway until you hit Kaaloa’s Super J’s (83-5409 Mamalahoa Highway). You’ll step into what looks like someone’s house—and is actually home to some of the best haupia and kulolo in the state. You’ll want to grab a few of its mini laulau for the road, too. If you’re not hungry but might want to eat some later, don’t fret. The friendly aunties behind the counter have a stock of frozen laulau ready to go, and they’ll even wrap it up for you in insulated packing material.

Hope you got your playlist sorted out—or are with companions who can keep a conversation going—because there’s not a whole lot to see between here and Punaluu, the next town you’ll want to stop at. There are a few pit stops where you can stretch your legs, like Manuka State Wayside, which has a 2-mile nature trail and is also a great place to have a picnic. If you want to get that perfect shot for your Instagram account, the street signs that dot Ocean View, a small community just past Manuka State Wayside, are hard to beat. The intersection of Luau Drive and Hawaiʻi Boulevard makes for a prime photo op, and Aloha Boulevard and Tiki Lane will definitely let people know you’re in Hawaiʻi.